2013 Chevy Malibu Rear Suspension Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a really bad vibration that seems to be coming from the rear of the car. I can only seem to pinpoint this control arm. It seems to twist and the bushing looks bad.
Is there a Moog part for this? If not is raybestos or dorman good enough?
Heres a few pics of it:
Also this lower arm looks bad as well but i cant seem to find it at all....
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
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It looks like you need both upper and lower lateral control arms for the rear. It appears the price for the GM part vs the Doorman part is about the same. I doubt there is any difference and the GM part hasn't lasted too long. I would buy whatever is the most convenient to get.
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Ok so I replaced both arms on one side today and found that
1) it was harder than i expected
Hi - I'm in the process of replacing all of the control arms in the rear suspension of my 2004 Malibu LT due to bad bushings. I have new lower control arm, upper control arm, trailing arm and lateral link (arm).
I'm also changing the knuckle bushings as they were cheap and everything's apart.
I'm having a real difficult time removing the camber bolts on the lateral arm and the lower control arm. I'm not sure if there's a trick to removing the bolts or not? The nuts and the washers on the back side have been removed but I cannot push out the bolt. I've tried an impact wrench and 2lb, 3lb and even 10lb sledgehammers and they won't budge.
Any advice on how to remove these camber bolts would be very appreciated.
Also - I haven't tried to remove the rear (inside) bolt on the upper control arm yet but there appears to be very little clearance. Is it possible to remove the upper control arm without dropping the subframe / crossmember to gain access?
Thanks very much in advance!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As far as the bolts not coming out you might have to heat them. You can try using a punch and a hammer to pound them out. You might want to replace the camber bolts anyway.
As for the subframe I dropped it to get access to those bolts. It makes it easier to get at the trailing arms as well.
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As far as the bolts not coming out you might have to heat them. You can try using a punch and a hammer to pound them out. You might want to replace the camber bolts anyway.
As for the subframe I dropped it to get access to those bolts. It makes it easier to get at the trailing arms as well.
Heat didn't help in my case. I ended up cutting the bolts off with a reciprocating saw and buying new camber bolts. As I had damaged the nuts by banging with the sledge, I purchased new nuts and new washers also. I had to get the camber bolts, washers and nuts from the dealer. $58 for a set of 4 each. Ouch!
And those bolts/nuts/washers are Made in China - there must be a "YUGE" markup on those. The washers had to be touched up with a file in order to get them to fit on the bolts. After paying $4.19 each for those washers I wasn't impressed that they were not a perfect fit without slight adjustments...
I was actually able to access the bolts for the upper control arm by using an extension on my ratchet and my homemade penetrating oil consisting of 50/50 solution of Automatic Transmission Fluid + Acetone worked wonders. I've seen several YouTube videos describing and testing the homemade penetrating oil as being the best and I am a believer now. The bolts wouldn't budge after soaking them with PB Blaster but after a little soak with the ATF/Acetone they came off really easily. :laugh:
Now the next challenge is installing the new knuckle bushings. I'm first going search to see if anyone else has any info on these before posting that question.
Thanks very much for your response!
Posted by: diannadiannapetilloe0269075.blogspot.com
Source: https://www.chevymalibuforum.com/threads/rear-control-arms.36705/
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